Boys & Bikes…
As with most great ideas, we were standing around a fire with beer in-hand, when someone said “Let’s do a bike trip!”. And so we did.
Steve, Gavin and myself have been threatening to do a biking adventure for a long time. Gavin saying that he’ll buy a new bike when Steve and I design a trip...Steve and I stating that we’ll only design a trip once Gavin replaces his old XT500...and so it went in circles...
Finally Gavin, impatient with Steve and I, broke down and bought a brand new second- hand F650GS Dakar! No panniers or formal luggage system, but we were GOING. Steve straddled his R1150GS and I saddled up my trusty R80GS Kalahari.
Succumbing to the spirit of throwing caution to the wind, we had a rough plan for the first few days only. Thereafter we were playing it by ear and just following our gut.
That is how we ended up meeting in Giyani, Steve and Gav arriving from Haenertsburg and I from Grietjie, on a hot April morning. As agreed, we left our watches at home and mobile phones switched off and packed away as they were only for emergencies.
The objective for today was purely to head North through Malamulele and then turn E towards Pafuri Gate but again turn North at Mhinga and parallel the Kruger Park boundary to reach our campsite somewhere in the Mavhurivhuri Indigenous Forest.
The dusty single-lane wound its way across flat-lands with fields of mealies (corn), scattered huts, rickety kraals (enclosures for livestock), crisscrossing little streams and small rivers until it started snaking up the slopes of the Soutpansberg Mountains. Kids of all ages were running with flailing limbs and screaming at the tops of their shrill voices at the sight of us 3 Musketeers (or Stooges) on their rides. Beaming smiles and eager eyes.
Finally we reached camp where showers were hot, the site stunning and it only took a 5min ride to locate a shabeen which sold ice-cold beer! A tone-setter for the rest of the trip. What did however distract us were, what sounded like a 1000 bell carrying cattle, bolting down the slope past camp to reach the stream we were camping alongside. The clanking was incredible and that also set another tone for the rest of the trip. More about this later.
After an early morning rise, we continued our way further North on fantastic dirt to reach Masisi where we stopped at a small spaza/tuck shop for a cold-drink and a tin of bullybeef (corned meat) for sustenance. With a bit of fortification had, it was the bumpy ride West to visit the spectacle of the Sagole Giant. A leviathan of a Baobab tree, perched atop an East-West sandstone ridge, which with a single-trunk circumference of almost 34m, dwarfs any other baobab I have ever seen. Just for scale, note Gavin imitating a leopard (unsuccessfully) on the lowest sweeping bough to the right.
Communing with such a splendid specimen took a tad longer than we expected and occasional sandy patches which 2-wheeled machines are never fond of slowed progress. Surprisingly heavy traffic loads with unsurprising driver-behaviour pressed Gavin’s buttons to the point where he took off like a participant in the Paris-Dakar Rally and in the process almost wiping out a whole class-load of children weaving through the manic motoring. We all had a good laugh when a little while later we stopped so he could retie his stuff bag which shook loose. Needless to say we didn’t make it very far that day and decided to slip off to camp at Tshipise Hot Springs for the night. Soaking our now aching riding-unfit bodies in the warm waters was pleasant beyond words and so were the cold beers from the shop!
The next morning we made for Musina where we acquired some provisions for the three nights we were to spend in Tuli across the border into Botswana. With my 43L (10gal) tank, I didn’t need to refuel and went ahead of the guys. I stopped at the breathtaking view as pictured below to wait for the slow-coaches...only to eventually call them and discover they took a different route and were waiting for me in Alldays. Nice.
Crossing the Great green greasy Limpopo at Platjan into Tuli is always an adventure. What is great is that due to its remoteness, things are rather laid back and informal with everyone in good spirits and ready to laugh at the drop of a helmet.
The landscape in Tuli is quite varied.
From the mighty Limpopo and its riparian forests to extensive saline-rich clay flats to rounded granitic bouldered koppies/outcrops to pale sandstone deposits and black basaltic ridges. All this combines to provide for amazing diversity in topography, soils and vegetation. Apart from again a few sandy stretches, the ride was fantastic and not before long we reached our destination at Tuli Wilderness Trails which is run by a friend of ours.
As can be expected with such terrain, there was a puncture.
Gavin was the recipient of this misfortune but, like the musketeers, it was one for all and all for one. In no time whatsoever then tube was replaced with the spare we carried and we were off on a ride to enjoy sundowners at one o the numerous sodic-sites. Yes, you guessed it, we succeeded in finding cold beer from Stuart’s storeroom…
Here are the steeds. Gavin’s F650GS, my R80GS and Steve’s R1150GS.
As is customary for a visit to Tuli, we ended up scaling Eagle Rock on the banks of the Motloutse River. As I’ve mentioned in previous writings this is one of those places which brings anyone and everyone to silence. The magnitude of the sense-of-place which is imbued by this vista, takes even the hardiest urbanite by force. Whiling a few hours here is effortless and the longer you sit and stare the closer you come to some deep truths.
Geological formations abound with Solomon’s Wall (Dolorite/Diabase dyke) with Gavin right up against the rocks as well as this geode commonly seen in sandstone.
As with Eagle Rock, no visit to Tuli is complete without an encounter with some eles. One afternoon whilst hiding from the sun, a few eles came to camp for a visit.
After spending a few days walking around Tuli, it was time...but whereto?
With no set plans for what lay ahead, we calculated that we could easily cross into Zimbabwe at Plum Tree and reach Matobo National Park which looked like a good plan. Just then Steve recommended that we rather opt for using the less known post at Matsiloje from where we cross the Ramaquabane River from Botswana to Zimbabwe. Another consideration is that once we cross the border, the density of villages increases tenfold so we decided to camp wild on the Bots side and cross in the morning.
Bobonong was the resupply stop and from there we made North West taking secondary gravel roads which kept us fully engaged for at least 3hrs. Stunning scenery and deserted roads compensated for the challenging ride and eventually we stopped in a village just before Matsiloje to top up with water and scout for somewhere to camp.
Exploring the surrounds we discovered a massive dam built on the Tati River but couldn’t find any suitable site, venturing downstream along the river also yielded nothing, another sojourn into the bundu along the Ramaquabane saw us almost settling down except there were Devil’s Thorn EVERYWHERE and precluded even the slightest option.
Nearly surrendering, we rode around for a while longer and finally found a dead-end somewhat off the main drag to Matsiloje and set up camp far enough off the road to remain unseen from prying eyes.
Gav and I rode the 15km back into the village to find a cold beer while Steve set up home.
Dinner comprised of bullybeef and baked-beans washed down with truly cold draught.
It might not sound like much...but add this sky and a flickering fire and what you have, is paradise!
I opted to not pitch tent and sleep under the stars!
What a decision...
Choosing these out-of-the-way border posts is so much more of a pleasant experience than the crowded, frenetic and confrontational ones on the arterial routes. There is a healthy level of humaneness and genuine interest in exchanging more than just
formalities. As is when travelling by bike, attention is always drawn and the inevitable questions of “how fast does it go” and “how many litres does the tank take?” surfaces. With gasps and jeers we are on our way and soon we are treated to a massive stand of mature Mopane trees as featured below. Riding through this induced a trance-like feeling...
Soon the road became more and more potholed which slowed even the bikes to an average of about 30km/h. Some stretches would be ok prompting you to speed up only to thrash the suspension, your kit and derrière in a sudden impact with another hole!
Maphisa was where we were headed, from here the road to Antelope Mine and on to Matobo is an old strip-road. Strip-roads are basically surfaced roads with a width of only a single vehicle. The shoulders of the road is quite wide which facilitates each opposing vehicle to drop the outer set of wheels onto the dirt when passing. The winding track sweeps through the boulder strewn landscape and had us mesmerised in no time. Taking a chance, as motorcycles are not allowed in the Park, we asked nicely and promised that we would only ride the 2km to the campsite... they obliged! The cost of camping in the Park was however rather extortionate so we limited it to one only.
Early next morning the large gomo/koppie beckoned and we tackled it head-on. Slowly ascending the gigantic granite whale-back stopping every so often to investigate a little plant or lichen cluster, we crested to a vista which literally took our breaths away. Despite the apparent randomness of the formations, there seem to be a linearity from certain perspectives.
After a short shopping spree in Bulawayo we made camp at Lumani Falls. Gav is always ready for some giggle-inducing antics! The water was fresh but sweet.
As per usual, we had 1000-star accommodations and conversations around the fire ran as deep as the Milkyway above.
Lumani Falls is only a short hike from the campsite. Birding kept us from covering any meaningful distance and a beautiful tree or two demanded some attention from Gavin.
Around lunchtime we spent an hour or two at one of the thousands of caves Matobo is renowned for. We sat in the shade and marvelled not only at the rock art but also our own interpretations of what we thought they represented...some were truly spectacular. Mchabezi Dam is a big reservoir constructed in the Chavezi River which has its origin in the highlands just South of Bulawayo. We just popped in for a glimpse.
Staying another night at Lumani Falls provided us with dramatic lighting flooding down the valley at sunset which illuminated certain parts of the beautiful Miombo woodland.
As with every single other day we have spent on this trip, whenever we stopped somewhere to enjoy the scenery or camp, there we found the ubiquitous clanging of cow and donkey bells. We literately tried in as remote a spot as we could find (outside reserves or Parks) but lo and behold... sometimes faint but mostly not so faint...there it was. The fear of being stuck next to the road without help is so misplaced especially in rural Africa. Friendly people are everywhere and they will do whatever it requires to help you on your way.
Our next stretch was to head SE
to Gwanda to find a size 17 bolt to
replace the one from my tank
which vibrated loose and dropped
out. After buying the most
expensive bolt on planet earth, we
were on the road again making for
Makado where we turned East onto the two-track cutting through the Bubye River Conservancy. Just after turning off we found a shady Mopane Tree and enjoyed lunch and a short siesta. This was probably one of the surprises of the trip with all three of us feeling awestruck by the beauty of the region. Large Marula and Jackalberry trees, healthy swathes of grazing and varied topography all contributed to the sensory treat.
What was supposed to be a 100km dirt track, however turned into an un-signposted 165km track which took us to the dark side of sunset! Reaching the A4 main highway only after dark with another 50km to go before getting to Lion & Elephant Inn on the Bubye River, was not part of the plan. High shoulders on the road, big trucks and loads of other traffic with blinding headlights made our journey dangerous and stressful. Drifting off as far to the edge of the road when oncoming traffic approaches saw each of us at least once hit deep cutaways where the road had crumbled and disappeared. Thanks to seriously strong rims, great suspension and nerves of steel, all survived.
We rolled into the Inn at 1930 and dashed straight for the “Booby Trap” pub where numerous cold beers saw us regain composure after a harrowing last 50km!
The next day we had breakfast, saddled up and headed South to Beitbridge border post on the Limpopo where we crossed back to South Africa and made it safely home by sunset.
Some of the things we realised during our adventure was that you don’t necessarily need to travel far or even to other countries to get off the beaten track, just don’t select the most direct route or conveniently surfaced road. It doesn’t have to be expensive either as camping gives you all the necessities to get by but none of the insulating conveniences. There is something like over-planning, make a few decisions, but then just GO!
I have had the privilege of travelling on the bike from Cape Agulhas to Luanda in Angola to Lake Malawi and everything between.
What I absolutely love about this form of exploration is the physical and mental challenge of enduring the riding, heat, cold, wet, dust, corrugations, potholes, traffic, livestock and wildlife.
The beautiful simplicity of your existence is complimented by the silence (I wear earplugs) in the helmet and the oneness with machine and elements.
In a way it is very similar to walking in the bush, it demands absolute awareness and concentration yet yields a meditative state of mind.
I am certain that we shall make an annual event of this and shall share again next time.
Yours in adventure